An Essential Guide to Crete, Greece's Largest Island (2024)

Greece’s largest island, Crete is the do-it-all destination of the Aegean. You come for the obvious: beaches, and the resorts that sit on them. But much more than that, Crete ticks many other boxes that make it an immersive European island getaway. For one, there’s incredible history here thanks to the millenia of civilizations—from the ancient Minoans to the Venetians, Ottomans, and everything in between.

And the island is also reviving its wine scene; like much of the Mediterranean, winemaking has existed in Crete for thousands of years. But a phylloxera outbreak in the 1970s all but wiped out the island’s vineyards. Many farmers abandoned winemaking altogether in favor of other agricultural pursuits, but thankfully the last decade has seen a revival of Cretan viticulture.

So if you like interspersing sugar-white beaches with archaeological sites and wine tastings, very few islands in the world will rival what Crete has to offer. Here’s our guide to its four major regions, and the hotels to know about in each.

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Chania

The best place to start a Cretan exploration is in the west: Chania. Not only does it have one of the island’s two major airports, it’s also chock full of cultural and outdoor delights. While it might be known for its 14th-century Venetian harbor, Chania actually sits on the Minoan city of Kydonia, so you know that history runs deep here. What makes Chania the perfect launchpad is the variety of experiences: There are beaches within quick reach of the Old Town, and wilder hikes and lush vineyards that make easy, fuss-free day trips. In the city itself are some of the island’s most stylish restaurants and historic museums.

No matter what you decide to do, start your day with a pastry from Red Jane, a beautiful bakery located just outside the Old Town. The red marble interiors provide an austere setting to all your favorite European treats, from flaky croissants crowned with a generous heap of almond shavings to a chewy focaccia stuffed with mortadella.

Where to stay: Tel Aviv-based Brown Hotels just opened 148-room Isla Brown Chania, a cliff-top resort 30 minutes north of the Old Town. A wealth of amenities (from a kids’ club to luxe suites with private pools) makes this a fitting choice for a variety of travelers. Right on the harbor, Casa Delfino Hotel and Spa, one of the original boutique hotels in Chania, stuffs 24 rooms and suites into a historic Venetian mansion. An entirely more romantic setup, this hotel’s leafy terraces, pebbled courtyard, and tranquil spa create an intimate oasis within striking distance of Chania’s major city haunts.

Heraklion

A lot of locals and been-there-done-that travelers will try to put you off spending too much time in Heraklion. As Crete’s capital, many consider it a big-city hub devoid of the Mediterranean charm you would expect of a Greek island. But there are a lot of perks to staying in this port city. Not only does it have the bigger airport but it’s also much closer to the geographic center of the island, making the rest of Crete much more accessible with Heraklion as your base. Bonus: The best museums and archaeological attractions are nearby.

What to do: Located in the southern outskirts of town is one of Greece’s most important monuments. The Minoan Palace of Knossos is the country’s second-most visited archaeological site after the Acropolis in Athens. (It’s the setting for the legendary myth of the Minotaur!) It’s a massive complex of 1,300 rooms that surround a central courtyard. Cisterns, terracotta pottery, and frescoes allow a small peek into Minoan living. Often, tour companies partner a tour of Knossos (do it early in the morning or at sunset to avoid summer heat) with a guided visit to the The Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, where you can get lost marveling at treasures of antiquity, from Snake Goddess figurines from 1,600 BC to the famous bull's head rhyton.

Wine lovers should explore Dafnes wine country, located just 10 miles south of the center of Heraklion. Dafnes is an agricultural region that runs along a ridgeline overlooking the foothills of Mount Psiloritis. One of the area’s premier producers is family-owned Douloufakis, where you should definitely sign up for the Vidiano vertical tasting. This is one of Crete’s most beloved grapes—a versatile white that the island hopes will soon rival the Assyrtiko. Boutari, which operates a few wineries all over Greece, has one in Crete, too. And the state-of-the-art tasting room overlooking lush vineyards is just 15 minutes from the city.

Where to stay: Less than five miles east of the city is brand-new wellness resort Pnoe Breathing Life, where 60 minimalist pool suites deliver a stylish, intimate stay unlike anything in the area. Of course, wellness is a big draw here, and there is a massive inventory of offerings in the spa, from Barbara Sturm facial and Himalayan salt sauna to oxygen therapy pods. If you’d prefer a city stay, book Plum Guide’s Cretan Rose, a one-bedroom apartment in the heart of Heraklion. The loft-style property, which has a sweet garden equipped with a grill, is less than a 15-minute walk to the archaeological museum.

Rethymnon

Most travelers to Crete might split their time between Heraklion and Chania, but smack in the middle is the historic coastal district of Rethymnon (or Rethymno), a vacation powerhouse on its own. There are many beaches nearby, but historic artifacts, especially from the Venetian period, are all around. The Old Town is a small, easy-to-navigate hub with great restaurants and colorful shops. You’ll be rewarded if you take time to explore beyond the city: Like many parts of Crete, there’s a great mix of farmland and natural beauty in the region.

What to do: You’ll want to start with the Old Town, a maze of townhouses, loggias, and fountains from the 16th and 17th century when it was all part of Venice. In the heart of town is the Rimondi Venetian Fountain—a beautifully preserved relic from that time period. That, along with the imposing fortress and the port, is a larger-than-life piece of heritage, but even just strolling around the alleyways admiring the archways and grand mansions while slipping in and out of souvenir shops offers a great sense of place. You’ll definitely want to make a reservation for a meal at Avli; for decades, it’s been one of the best restaurants across the island. The courtyard of this Venetian villa with its mix-and-match furniture is an atmospheric spot for a lunch or dinner of classic Cretan fare, from crispy cheese rolls to grilled lobster served with tomato-loaded orzo.

You can start venturing away from the Old Town by enjoying as much of the seven-and-a-half-mile beach that stretches from Rethymnon to Skaleta. Along the way you’ll find rocky coves, water sports stations, and endless lounge chairs. The southern side of Rethymnon—about 30 minutes from the Old Town—has plenty of fantastic beaches, too: Preveli is considered one of the most stunning thanks to the sandy beach and crystal-clear water.

Where to stay: A 30-minute drive east of the Old Town, Kapsaliana Village is a cluster of transformed stone houses surrounded by citrus trees and olive groves. Rooms and suites retain their rustic foundation but country-chic interior decor modernizes stone walls and dramatic arches. There’s also an intimate pool, a farm-to-table restaurant, and spacious terraces perfect for sunbathing—all for when you don’t feel like leaving. If you’d rather trade the country for the sea, book Plum Guide’s Sea Shore Garden villa, a brightly decorated two-bedroom hideaway seconds from a white-sand beach (shared with three other units in the same complex). A 20-minute drive from Rethymnon, there are amenities aplenty at this family-friendly property: a pool, jacuzzi, children’s playground, and an on-site garden where you can pluck fresh veggies for the perfect summer salad.

Lasithi

Crete’s easternmost region is generally not as crowded as the rest of the island. Pockets like Agios Nikolaos have been booming with tourism interest recently, but the eastern reaches of the island is better known for its untouched natural beauty plus the Minoan ruin. There are definitely a few lively villages worth exploring, but otherwise, days here are probably best spent soaking up sunshine and saltwater.

If you tire of beach chasing and would prefer something more adventurous still, try spelunking down the Cave of Zeus (or the Diktaean Cave) near the village of Psychro. Rumor has it this is where Zeus was born.

Where to stay: Not far from the quiet village of Elounda, 256-room Blue Palace’s expansive footprint gives way to surprising delights, from the pebble beach to the open-air cinema to the low-lying buildings that unobstructedly hug the curves on the hill they’re on. There’s plenty of bright-blue sea views from the property, but if you want a closer look, board the hotel’s caïques for a sailing trip around the island. On the southern coast of Lasithi, brand-new adults-only hotel Numo Ierapetra looks like it could have been pulled directly from the beaches of Ibiza or Tulum. Its interiors are built around dark wood and a foundational palette of off-white, there’s a laundry list of wellness and fitness initiatives, the aromas of Asian fusion wafts from the kitchen, and, of course, parties are a big part of its allure. Musician Nacho Sotomayor is the music director, and he’s pulling in European and global DJs (Jody Wisternoff, Kevin Yost, and the like) to set the soundtrack for various events.